When I visited London in April 2006, I knew I just had to go to Le Quecumbar, one of the world's premier gypsy-jazz clubs. The place has live gypsy-jazz music 7 nights a week.

As luck would have it, one of the absolute masters of gypsy jazz, Moreno, was playing a one-night-only show at Le Que during my visit. So I went with my friend Simon.

A Quecumbar van, complete with a portrait of Django Reinhardt, was

parked outside. It was covered with signatures by all the contemporary

gypsy-jazz greats.

When we entered Le Que, it was like we'd entered the 1930s. Old paintings and posters were everywhere.

Moreno, the guy with the gray hair, was a fantastic guitar player. His rhythm player was good, as well.

Moreno pulled out a few tricks during the set: He played with a wine

glass, and he and the rhythm guitarist played the same guitar at the

same time -- a trick I hadn't seen done before.